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2009/8/19 Slow Food Feast at Greens Eggs and Ham: Part 2 About when Michael was putting the elk on the grill from Amber Lane Game Farm, at the City Market bi-weekly, Thea was serving up an unexpected surprise! On the way to the farm, much earlier in the day, she was foraging for mushrooms and found several. The ones below in her right hand she identified as "Aspen Boletus", an edible relative of the porcini family in the process of possibly being titled the “Alberta Mushroom”. How exciting! Now, this is the quintessential slow food member’s raison d'être: in this case, our Edmonton Slow Food Convivium Leader, Thea Moss. I was excited to be part of her sharing. The mushrooms had absolutely no smell. Odd, coming from the porcini family, but then, I have never sniffed a fresh porcini, either.
   Minutes after her sharing her finds with some of us, she appeared with a frying pan in her hand filled with a steaming duck egg and “Alberta Mushroom” frittata. What else did she add? Salt and pepper. It was really yummy. The texture of the cooked mushroom was tender and lovely. The flavour was very delicate. I had to take a little of the cooked mushroom separately to really get a sense of the flavour. It really had a gentle “umami” kick to it that I thought drying might intensify. Thea said that it would lend itself quite well to drying.
 There is not an event that I go to with these people that I don’t learn something new, fascinating, and that excites me!
Oh, yes, there is more. I couldn’t believe it either! Michael has grilled more duck breasts, again to perfection, and is slicing them for the platter. He covered them with choke-cherry syrup: a marriage made in heaven. YUM! YUM! YUM! They were to be accompanied by Saskatoon Berry Compote. What a happy, happy accident.
   Did you think they were finished? Well, take another look. Don’t forget about the luscious grilled elk from Amber Lane Farm. It was a highlight for me at Indulgence 2009, and did not disappoint again. The only problem with preparing the dishes one at a time, is that one can only eat, taste, or enjoy so much food. But, I must have been the only one with that problem because almost everything was gobbled up. (I did see a lot of people loosening their belts!)
    You can see how tender it is, can’t you? Unbelievable!
Once again, Arianna's turn to shine. Out come her desserts made with duck eggs and the farm fruits and vegetables. Above is a dense and moist carrot cake crowned with a sprig of fennel. Who would have thought? Arianna, that’s who. “It just needed a little something,” she said, “so I pinched off a little fennel.” Absolutely perfect. Fennel on the cake. Perfect. Simple. Gorgeous. Flavourful. And right outside the door! Standing ovation for Arianna! ....for her culinary prowess, and creative instinct.
   She had two zucchini loaves, also scrumptious, and this rhubarb-raspberry crisp. I loved it. (That’s my green plate with a taste of each on the table in the top photo…) And, last, yes – we have come to the end: Gelato! Dennis Yurkiwky and his perky partner in the straw hat brought their gelato from their store, Chocolate Exquisite in Oliver Square. Again, I had a taste of each. Strawberry was my favourite, and I almost didn’t taste it.
  And, as promised, an anonymous photo of a little someone very special. Slow Food: Greens Eggs and Ham Second Annual Summer Feast I almost wasn’t able to make this celebration of fresh farmed produce this summer, but thankfully, I was able. Last year’s event was incredible! It would have been a personal travesty for me to miss participating in the harvest of Andreas and Mary Ellen’s resourceful ten acre breath of fresh air. Their farm, Greens Eggs and Ham produces amazing vegetables and fowl. The comradery of my fellow Slow Foodies is always a highlight at such events as I slowly get to know members event by event, or meeting by meeting. Thea’s sweet and appreciative smile after crunching into Adriana’s crisp and flavourful Red River Flatbread encapsulates the underlying afternoon ambiance: friendly, lively and passionately committed to local homemade food! We were an appreciative group spoiled with the amazing bounty of the mid-season harvest.
 I relish new experiences. Arianna, Mary Ellen and Andreas’ nineteen year old daughter, served a rustic and rich spinach, potato, and alpaca soup shortly after we arrived. The meat flavour was pleasing, but difficult to discern. “Ah, alpaca!” It was not gamey; the broth was quite heavy though the pieces of meat were lean and the potatoes like creamy butter. I was very impressed with Arianna's culinary ability at such a young age. The soup could have fed an army, but instead, our small group gobbled it up!
The charcuterie plate that followed minutes later contained only a sampling of the many offering from the Greens Eggs and Ham Farm. By the time I got to it with my camera, literally seconds after it was set on the table, half of it had evaporated! The turkey jerky was spectacular; the duck prosciutto, still my favourite. They were out of it, and will be introducing duck confit this fall, yet the selection offered was spectacular.
  I can never keep my nose out of a kitchen. The chefs and their helpers were brilliant, and actually had fun while they worked till sweat rolled down their faces. There was Executive Chef Ben with Curtis, Eric, and Kate from Jack’s Grill, Traci, the Pasty Chef from Cafe de Ville, and Executive Chef Blair Lebsack from Madison’s Grill at the Union Bank Inn. They came, plucked, scrubbed, and created. Mary Ellen left the menu completely up to these volunteer chefs. They could use whatever she and Andreas grew to prepare the vegetables. And, as they don’t grow herbs, she made arrangements with Morinville Greenhouses who sell every Saturday at the Strathcona Farmer’s Market to provide them. This challenge is every chef’s dream, and a foodie’s playground!
   Greens Eggs and Ham is famous for its salad greens. The combinations they put together are really delicious, and this one was the perfect simple refresher after the richness of the soup. The potato salad was prepared by Traci with duck egg mayonnaise and wild boar bacon that Mary Ellen purchased from Hog Wild Specialties, Earl Hagman’s farm in Westlock.
   Is there anything more satisfying than the simplicity of freshly plucked home grown, home prepared vegetables? Gorgeous!
 And it may have been about this time that Andreas took his first small group on one of his impassioned tours of his farm. Can you almost feel him counting down to a whole group mantra: Eat Local! Eat Local! Eat Local!
 Throughout the entire afternoon, Slowburn was playing. They are at the City Market every Saturday. They really set up a festive atmosphere for this event. Several times I had to hold myself back from dancing in the driveway. Oh, yes I did! I know it is a free country, but my kind of freedom of expression would definitely not be everyone’s cup of tea! Though Mary Ellen was groovin` to the music!
 No, you didn't miss out! I confess! She was excited to welcome a friend to the fest, not dancin`on the driveway… but, it was fun to think about!
  Meanwhile, Chef Extraordinaire, Mike Caldwell, is working his magic over the open fire with the farm fowl. Mike undertook the entire meat preparation for this feast. This is clearly a labour of love for him, and I was thankful I was there to share “the love”! YUM! The skewers on the wood burning fire grill are to be the Greens Eggs and Ham Duck breast kabobs, Moorish style, served with Mike's homemade harissa. He brought his invaluable “Chef Sous”, Dr. Gorden L. Bell, Jr., from Texas. Only Mike could have a pal as passionate as he sitting over the fire grilling meat. Great food brings such a variety of people together. I love that. Look at that colour. Fantastic! He already had a massive pot (see it in the right photo above?) filled with herbs, potatoes, and grilled duck legs bubbling on the gas burner in copious bottles of Saskatoon Berry wine. This would become the "Canard au vin” (Greens Eggs and Ham Duck legs grilled and then braised in En Sante Saskatoon wine) with Greens Eggs and Ham herbs and garden vegetables! The aroma was deadly. Keep that lid on, or we’ll all go mad waiting to eat it!
  But, first, the veggies are served. Are they not gorgeous? Each was like a work of art in its purest form on a plate. The baby zucchini was dressed with herbs and cheese; the beets with a raspberry and thyme vinaigrette. Both were superb, but the beets sparkled with the little jewels of raspberry won my vote for purrrrrrrrrrfect pleasure.
     Ta-da! Here he is, Dr, Michael Caldwell, taking a moment in the upright position, with his creative take on a fantastic harissa made to accompany the skewered duck breasts open-fire grilled to tantalizing perfection. His recipe can be found at the end of the blog. It imploded in my mouth. A spectacular arrangement of fireworks sparkled their way over my taste buds in crescendoing synchronicity. Mmm-Mmmm- ah! A very textured harissa, and not too hot, (truly) just enough heat to feel like I just paid penance for this day of feasting. I kept sneaking back for little tastes like a child investigating Pop-Rocks for the first time.
And following the Moorish style duck breast kabobs slathered with Mike`s harissa, Kate brought out the plate of colourful baby carrots dressed in fresh herbs. Tender and so fresh that there was no doubt these little roots had their little heads buried deep in the Earth earlier in the day. Peek-a-boo! We found you! YUM!
   Can you imagine alpaca steaks with sorrel-mint chimichurri sauce? The steaks were moist and tender with that curiously unfamiliar je ne sais quois that compelled one to take bite after bite working to identify this new flavour experience. The herbs were bright with a strong sweet and sour punch that again begged further exploration bite after bite. The alpaca was provided by Alberta Rose Alpaca. Unfortunately, Bob and Lauraine Bijou weren’t able to join the festivities, or see the surprised and delighted faces of those eating their fare.
    Remember that pot of boiling Canard au vin? It is ready to go. Mike just poured it upside down on the serving tray. Oh my GAWD. This IS the life. Out in a farm yard, on an open fire (with a little gas to boil this pot), wide blue sky, fresh earthy air, and then the fragrant aromas of Saskatoon berry wine, onion, garlic and rosemary, roasted duck… does it get any better than this? Michael pulled out the legs with his tongs, and effortlessly had a magazine cover shot quality presentation ready to serve.
       Every time Michael left his cooking area to take a platter to the table, he had a little train of followers behind him, plate and fork in hand, tongues hanging loosely from the side of the mouth. But there was always plenty for all.
Suddenly, and unexpectedly, there appeared a plate of warm flatbreads nestled in a bed of paper towel. How did I notice? The deeply throaty and lusting moans and groans first turned my head to discover the little crowd that had gathered round it, not moving after having one in hand. Seconds, pleeease! Somehow, this treat just hit the spot as we all crunched on the wholesome Red River Flatbreads made by Adriana. Ok, yes, they were fried, but the grains and roughage are good for you! The recipe for these can be found at the end of the blog.
   Traci assisted, Arianna was camera shy. You will find a candid of her sweet smile after the gelato, below.
  No doubt about it, it was a hit. Bravo, Arianna!
Red River Flatbread, or Arianna's Bhaturas
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Instructions:
Mike`s Harissa
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Instructions:
Traditionally, this preserved the paste along with the strong capsicum.
 Home to the Garden: Fresh Black Currant, or Cassis Sorbet (Thermomix) I couldn’t believe how gorgeous the berries were when I got home. Glistening raspberry jewels, dusty violet purple saskatoons, and bulging black currant pearls screaming: “Pick me! Pick me!” at me. Hold me back! I go golfing for the wild berries. I restrain myself from stealing ripened fruit off of the vines and branches in the neighbourhood. I picked!
  The sweet pucker-tart scent of the leaves and stems took me back to my Grandma’s garden when I was a child. She had long rows of current bushes: black, red, and white. They grew high above my head, and as I walked between the rows on a hot sunny day, my feet would burn on the top layer of earth, so I would sink my toes deep into the cool blackness beneath and wonder at the glistening bobbles of berries hanging in crystal clusters from the branches. The most beautiful earrings on my little ears, and the most fragrant perfume. But the taste was too tart and sour. I used the black ones to crush on my lips for lipstick, the red ones for earrings, and the white ones to pop inside of my mouth and gurgle on. The white currants were sweet cool droplets of rain suspended in a tender little sac on each branch. I loved my grandma’s garden. I am so thankful for plentiful memories of planting and growing and picking and plucking, of stained fingers, stained lips, dirty toes, and dirty clothes. I know exactly where my roots are and why I love to do what I love to do. I am an Alberta prairie girl through and through.
  I also had my head in France as the first time I tasted Cassis Sorbet was on a warm spring day in Tours. My friend, Rae, had told me that I must taste it the minute I see it. On a shaded narrow cobblestone path upward there was the sun blazing through as the little road intersected with a walking promenade I spied an ice cream stand just off to the right under a quaint yellow and white striped sunbrella. Did they have cassis? They did! Pitter-patter! Truly. I was excited. “Cassis, s’il vous plais!” The tart sweet earthy depth of purple was completely new to me, and unforgettable. I was hooked. I bought a black currant bush as soon as I returned home. The first summer, I had reasonable success and was able to get one litre of syrup from my few berries. The next few years had me struggling as my bush caught many diseases, bugs, worms, and the berries were non-existent. One cannot buy frozen, unsweetened (or any kind of) blackberries in this country though it is possible to do so in Europe, so I was even more motivated. Cassis sorbet is not sold here. Black currants are not available here. So, I moved my bush two years ago, and this year I have a bumper crop! This year I also found that they can be purchased from Mo-Na Food here in Edmonton, frozen, each fall.
 Picking currants is messy work, but rewarding work. After getting a bucket full of the currants with stems and leaves almost invisible little crawly creatures, they need a really good wash. All of the leaves, stems, and “bad” fruit will rise to the surface. I ladled that off, and then continued to carefully pick through the rest.
  One basket has the dirty berries, and one the clean. Can you tell which is which?
  Now for the sorbet!
Cassis Sorbet
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Instructions:
This recipe is very tart and quite sweet, but excellent for a palate cleanser between courses.
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