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20/10/2009 A Sonnet From A Canadian Foodie: An Ode to Sundog Organic Farm's Garlic How do I love thee? Let me count the ways...  I love thee through the depth my gasps ignite extolling pow'rful pungency each flight. For your Simple Being, and appealing taste I love thee past Common Sense and Anchovy Paste!  You quench my quiet crave for a heady bite; I love thee Ideally, and am not contrite. I love thy crunch, and fragrant purple haze; I love thee with ev'ry stench-ed breath I make.  With my Belief, and my Fervent Craze, I love thy wild, unruly rooting ache. Without restraint, I love thy impudence Thus yearn to feature you in ev'ry dish I make; And vow to fore’er rise in your Defense.  How do I love thee? Let me count the ways...
I love thee through the depth my gasps ignite extolling pow'rful pungency each flight. For your Simple Being, and appealing taste I love thee past Common Sense and Anchovy Paste! You quench my quiet crave for a heady bite; I love thee Ideally, and am not contrite. I love thy crunch, and fragrant purple haze; I love thee with ev'ry stench-ed breath I make. With my Belief, and my Fervent Craze, I love thy wild, unruly rooting ache. Without restraint, I love thy impudence Thus yearn to feature you in ev'ry dish I make; And vow to fore’er rise in your Defense. 01/10/2009 Vanja for Supper on Tuesdays: Pea Tendrils, Salmon, Oven Roasted Potatoes and Bocconcini with Ajvar   This was my main, but I shared. Every Tuesday we try to have our dear friend, V, for dinner. I am not much of a meat eater, so I dressed up a large, soft, pillowy bundle of wobbley, young unripened bocconci cheese from The Italian Centre Store with my own homemade ajvar. I dressed it with some delectable extra virgin olive oil and some black Hawaiian sea salt. So, so, so goood. Then, I took the leftovers from the stone soup salad we created for Cathy's birthday (yes, in June - I planned to post this before now!) and added some chive flowers and the same dressing and more greens.
I was delighted to find that Edgar Farms was producing pea tendrils this spring. I had craved them since my dinner in Boston at Olives.I could not wait to steam some up with some spring salmon. V would be thrilled. He is a vegetable junkie.
   Now this is actually the Thermomix Mousse Salmon with Mango Sauce that I made in my Thermomix. The recipe will follow. It went perfect with the oven roasted potatoes and the pea tendrils. (And the bocconcini that I DID share.) Isn't this a gorgeous, fresh spring meal? I was thrilled. The boys? Not so much. They really loved the stone soup salad, and the salmon and the potatoes. But the pea tendrils? "What are these curly things that catch in between my teeth? Am I really supposed to eat this? Isn't it some kind of weed?" Next time, I will prepare such a succulent meal for more discriminating guests. Humph!
   Anyway, I was thrilled, and I will be the first in line next spring when the pea tendrils are ready again at the Edgar Farms booth at the City Market! 19/08/2009 Slow Food Feast at Greens Eggs and Ham: Part 2 About when Michael was putting the elk on the grill from Amber Lane Game Farm, at the City Market bi-weekly, Thea was serving up an unexpected surprise! On the way to the farm, much earlier in the day, she was foraging for mushrooms and found several. The ones below in her right hand she identified as "Aspen Boletus", an edible relative of the porcini family in the process of possibly being titled the “Alberta Mushroom”. How exciting! Now, this is the quintessential slow food member’s raison d'être: in this case, our Edmonton Slow Food Convivium Leader, Thea Moss. I was excited to be part of her sharing. The mushrooms had absolutely no smell. Odd, coming from the porcini family, but then, I have never sniffed a fresh porcini, either.
   Minutes after her sharing her finds with some of us, she appeared with a frying pan in her hand filled with a steaming duck egg and “Alberta Mushroom” frittata. What else did she add? Salt and pepper. It was really yummy. The texture of the cooked mushroom was tender and lovely. The flavour was very delicate. I had to take a little of the cooked mushroom separately to really get a sense of the flavour. It really had a gentle “umami” kick to it that I thought drying might intensify. Thea said that it would lend itself quite well to drying.
 There is not an event that I go to with these people that I don’t learn something new, fascinating, and that excites me!
Oh, yes, there is more. I couldn’t believe it either! Michael has grilled more duck breasts, again to perfection, and is slicing them for the platter. He covered them with choke-cherry syrup: a marriage made in heaven. YUM! YUM! YUM! They were to be accompanied by Saskatoon Berry Compote. What a happy, happy accident.
   Did you think they were finished? Well, take another look. Don’t forget about the luscious grilled elk from Amber Lane Farm. It was a highlight for me at Indulgence 2009, and did not disappoint again. The only problem with preparing the dishes one at a time, is that one can only eat, taste, or enjoy so much food. But, I must have been the only one with that problem because almost everything was gobbled up. (I did see a lot of people loosening their belts!)
    You can see how tender it is, can’t you? Unbelievable!
Once again, Arianna's turn to shine. Out come her desserts made with duck eggs and the farm fruits and vegetables. Above is a dense and moist carrot cake crowned with a sprig of fennel. Who would have thought? Arianna, that’s who. “It just needed a little something,” she said, “so I pinched off a little fennel.” Absolutely perfect. Fennel on the cake. Perfect. Simple. Gorgeous. Flavourful. And right outside the door! Standing ovation for Arianna! ....for her culinary prowess, and creative instinct.
   She had two zucchini loaves, also scrumptious, and this rhubarb-raspberry crisp. I loved it. (That’s my green plate with a taste of each on the table in the top photo…) And, last, yes – we have come to the end: Gelato! Dennis Yurkiwky and his perky partner in the straw hat brought their gelato from their store, Chocolate Exquisite in Oliver Square. Again, I had a taste of each. Strawberry was my favourite, and I almost didn’t taste it.
  And, as promised, an anonymous photo of a little someone very special. Slow Food: Greens Eggs and Ham Second Annual Summer Feast I almost wasn’t able to make this celebration of fresh farmed produce this summer, but thankfully, I was able. Last year’s event was incredible! It would have been a personal travesty for me to miss participating in the harvest of Andreas and Mary Ellen’s resourceful ten acre breath of fresh air. Their farm, Greens Eggs and Ham produces amazing vegetables and fowl. The comradery of my fellow Slow Foodies is always a highlight at such events as I slowly get to know members event by event, or meeting by meeting. Thea’s sweet and appreciative smile after crunching into Adriana’s crisp and flavourful Red River Flatbread encapsulates the underlying afternoon ambiance: friendly, lively and passionately committed to local homemade food! We were an appreciative group spoiled with the amazing bounty of the mid-season harvest.
 I relish new experiences. Arianna, Mary Ellen and Andreas’ nineteen year old daughter, served a rustic and rich spinach, potato, and alpaca soup shortly after we arrived. The meat flavour was pleasing, but difficult to discern. “Ah, alpaca!” It was not gamey; the broth was quite heavy though the pieces of meat were lean and the potatoes like creamy butter. I was very impressed with Arianna's culinary ability at such a young age. The soup could have fed an army, but instead, our small group gobbled it up!
The charcuterie plate that followed minutes later contained only a sampling of the many offering from the Greens Eggs and Ham Farm. By the time I got to it with my camera, literally seconds after it was set on the table, half of it had evaporated! The turkey jerky was spectacular; the duck prosciutto, still my favourite. They were out of it, and will be introducing duck confit this fall, yet the selection offered was spectacular.
  I can never keep my nose out of a kitchen. The chefs and their helpers were brilliant, and actually had fun while they worked till sweat rolled down their faces. There was Executive Chef Ben with Curtis, Eric, and Kate from Jack’s Grill, Traci, the Pasty Chef from Cafe de Ville, and Executive Chef Blair Lebsack from Madison’s Grill at the Union Bank Inn. They came, plucked, scrubbed, and created. Mary Ellen left the menu completely up to these volunteer chefs. They could use whatever she and Andreas grew to prepare the vegetables. And, as they don’t grow herbs, she made arrangements with Morinville Greenhouses who sell every Saturday at the Strathcona Farmer’s Market to provide them. This challenge is every chef’s dream, and a foodie’s playground!
   Greens Eggs and Ham is famous for its salad greens. The combinations they put together are really delicious, and this one was the perfect simple refresher after the richness of the soup. The potato salad was prepared by Traci with duck egg mayonnaise and wild boar bacon that Mary Ellen purchased from Hog Wild Specialties, Earl Hagman’s farm in Westlock.
   Is there anything more satisfying than the simplicity of freshly plucked home grown, home prepared vegetables? Gorgeous!
 And it may have been about this time that Andreas took his first small group on one of his impassioned tours of his farm. Can you almost feel him counting down to a whole group mantra: Eat Local! Eat Local! Eat Local!
 Throughout the entire afternoon, Slowburn was playing. They are at the City Market every Saturday. They really set up a festive atmosphere for this event. Several times I had to hold myself back from dancing in the driveway. Oh, yes I did! I know it is a free country, but my kind of freedom of expression would definitely not be everyone’s cup of tea! Though Mary Ellen was groovin` to the music!
 No, you didn't miss out! I confess! She was excited to welcome a friend to the fest, not dancin`on the driveway… but, it was fun to think about!
  Meanwhile, Chef Extraordinaire, Mike Caldwell, is working his magic over the open fire with the farm fowl. Mike undertook the entire meat preparation for this feast. This is clearly a labour of love for him, and I was thankful I was there to share “the love”! YUM! The skewers on the wood burning fire grill are to be the Greens Eggs and Ham Duck breast kabobs, Moorish style, served with Mike's homemade harissa. He brought his invaluable “Chef Sous”, Dr. Gorden L. Bell, Jr., from Texas. Only Mike could have a pal as passionate as he sitting over the fire grilling meat. Great food brings such a variety of people together. I love that. Look at that colour. Fantastic! He already had a massive pot (see it in the right photo above?) filled with herbs, potatoes, and grilled duck legs bubbling on the gas burner in copious bottles of Saskatoon Berry wine. This would become the "Canard au vin” (Greens Eggs and Ham Duck legs grilled and then braised in En Sante Saskatoon wine) with Greens Eggs and Ham herbs and garden vegetables! The aroma was deadly. Keep that lid on, or we’ll all go mad waiting to eat it!
  But, first, the veggies are served. Are they not gorgeous? Each was like a work of art in its purest form on a plate. The baby zucchini was dressed with herbs and cheese; the beets with a raspberry and thyme vinaigrette. Both were superb, but the beets sparkled with the little jewels of raspberry won my vote for purrrrrrrrrrfect pleasure.
     Ta-da! Here he is, Dr, Michael Caldwell, taking a moment in the upright position, with his creative take on a fantastic harissa made to accompany the skewered duck breasts open-fire grilled to tantalizing perfection. His recipe can be found at the end of the blog. It imploded in my mouth. A spectacular arrangement of fireworks sparkled their way over my taste buds in crescendoing synchronicity. Mmm-Mmmm- ah! A very textured harissa, and not too hot, (truly) just enough heat to feel like I just paid penance for this day of feasting. I kept sneaking back for little tastes like a child investigating Pop-Rocks for the first time.
And following the Moorish style duck breast kabobs slathered with Mike`s harissa, Kate brought out the plate of colourful baby carrots dressed in fresh herbs. Tender and so fresh that there was no doubt these little roots had their little heads buried deep in the Earth earlier in the day. Peek-a-boo! We found you! YUM!
   Can you imagine alpaca steaks with sorrel-mint chimichurri sauce? The steaks were moist and tender with that curiously unfamiliar je ne sais quois that compelled one to take bite after bite working to identify this new flavour experience. The herbs were bright with a strong sweet and sour punch that again begged further exploration bite after bite. The alpaca was provided by Alberta Rose Alpaca. Unfortunately, Bob and Lauraine Bijou weren’t able to join the festivities, or see the surprised and delighted faces of those eating their fare.
    Remember that pot of boiling Canard au vin? It is ready to go. Mike just poured it upside down on the serving tray. Oh my GAWD. This IS the life. Out in a farm yard, on an open fire (with a little gas to boil this pot), wide blue sky, fresh earthy air, and then the fragrant aromas of Saskatoon berry wine, onion, garlic and rosemary, roasted duck… does it get any better than this? Michael pulled out the legs with his tongs, and effortlessly had a magazine cover shot quality presentation ready to serve.
       Every time Michael left his cooking area to take a platter to the table, he had a little train of followers behind him, plate and fork in hand, tongues hanging loosely from the side of the mouth. But there was always plenty for all.
Suddenly, and unexpectedly, there appeared a plate of warm flatbreads nestled in a bed of paper towel. How did I notice? The deeply throaty and lusting moans and groans first turned my head to discover the little crowd that had gathered round it, not moving after having one in hand. Seconds, pleeease! Somehow, this treat just hit the spot as we all crunched on the wholesome Red River Flatbreads made by Adriana. Ok, yes, they were fried, but the grains and roughage are good for you! The recipe for these can be found at the end of the blog.
   Traci assisted, Arianna was camera shy. You will find a candid of her sweet smile after the gelato, below.
  No doubt about it, it was a hit. Bravo, Arianna!
Red River Flatbread, or Arianna's Bhaturas
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mike`s Harissa
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Traditionally, this preserved the paste along with the strong capsicum.
 12/06/2009 Slow Food Edmonton’s Event Spectacular: Indulgence 2009 “The Quintessential Taste of Alberta”I just got home from the best food tasting extravaganza I have ever been to anywhere! Imagine yourself walking into a large spacious ballroom (Delta Hotel Edmonton South) and finding the best restaurants in the city showcasing the best produce in the province thoughtfully pared with Canadian wines and local beer all for just $60.00!
I know! And, then know that the entire $60.00 goes to the Junior League of Edmonton. All of the farms and ranches donated their goods. All of the restaurants, or chefs, donated their time and expertise. The libations were donated, as well. Indulgence 2009 is absolutely Edmonton’s best kept secret! (Above is one of the owners of Culina who was passing the yummy lamb koftas and enjoying the crowd.) Take a look at the generous and delectable platings. There were seventeen samplings, and yes, we sampled every one of them! YUMMERS!
First, the Waskwei Venison Cassoulet and the Shepherd’s Pie with Wagyu Beef by the Red Ox Inn and Lux Steakhouse and Bar, respectively. I usually do not care for venison, but this is farm raised, and very special. (…so was the polenta!) The Shepherd’s Pie was innovative, and very flavourful.
To say that I did not care for the beautifully plated lamb would be an understatement. I didn’t take notes, and the information about the producer of the meat was confusing, but I did ask her for a card, as she was there. She told me she didn’t bring any because she only sold her lamb to restaurants so I need not bother to gather it up. I have since found out she was Lori Menshik from Full Course Strategies. Whatever she feeds her lamb is what I do not like. It was exceptionally strong and bit me back when I took a taste. Fortunately, the butternut squash puree, and the Beluga lentils were not only eye appealing, but delish! Where do I buy Beluga lentils in Edmonton? That will be my next little project. Characters Fine Dining did the beautiful plate, and accompaniment. The Amberlane Farm Naturally-raised Elk was a stand-out. Flavours Modern Bistro prepared it butter-tender and pared it with Saskatoon berries. It was a generous portion, but still not enough as it was so succulent and full of what I call “prairie flavour”. We all agreed that it was in the running for first place.
Fairwinds Farm Goat Cheese Lobster Mushroom and Leek Tart was made by Cafe de Ville. I do enjoy the Cafe de Ville, but there was not any lobster, mushrooms or leeks in my tart, or Cathy’s (my guest for the evening). The goat cheese was very velvety, rich and lovely, but as my expectations were built up, it was a “little” disappointing. I must be the last person in Edmonton to discover this cheese! It is a keeper. I have to find out where to buy it in Edmonton. I see from their card that they are from Ft. MacLeod. Another pièce de résistance was Spring Creek Ranch’s Natural Beef Flank Steak with a Blistered Gull Valley Tomato and Olive Relish, Heritage Greens, Fourwinds Farms Goat Cheese all on a Corn Tuile. Only Madison’s Grill at The Union Bank Inn could fit all of that into one (supposedly small) serving. It was masterful, hearty and just plain yummy. The flank steak was TEN-DER! Loved the corn tuile. YUM! Another in the running for first place.
Irving’s Farm Berkshire Pork Belly with Truffled Apple Salad by The Bothy Wine and Whiskey Bar was stellar! Is there anything better than pork belly, really? …and nothing is better than the pork belly from the rare and succulent Berkshire Boar. I understand the chef cooked the pork belly for over nine hours. However long, it was definitely full of tender loving care! The Turkey Tonnato by The Blue Pear was made with Arianna's Farm Fresh Turkey with Tuna Anchovy Mayonnaise, Capers and Parsley. Arianna's Farm Fresh Turkey are the only turkey I buy now. I have seen Andreas, her father, talk to them, and watched them talk back to him! She is a young student with a business. This turkey was poached to perfection and velvet to the tongue.
Greens Eggs and Ham Duck Leg Confit with Baby White Almond Potatoes on Micro Sprouts in a Basil Aioli was by the Hotel MacDonald. Every bit of that is from Greens Eggs and Ham! This was, for me, the quintessential “Taste of Alberta” all in one perfect bite. Another one in the running for first place. Everything GH&H has is sold every Saturday morning at the City Market. Carmen Creek Bison Sliders with Red Onion Confit and Gorgonzola Cheese by Botanical, Delta Edmonton South were really, really tasty. The flavour combination was a happy surprise! This little appy was a meal unto itself.
Then there was the Mexican Chicken Pibil with a Black Bean puree accompanied by a Citrus Onion Salsa (hot, or really hot) created by Mexico Lindo and provided by Full Course Strategies. I chose the hot. The Pibil was deadly delicious. I would have liked a mild salsa, as the flavours appeared so refreshing, but I wasn’t sure as the burn took over and initiated an uninvited hot flash. Whew! Just thinking of it makes me sweat. The Suede Lounge did a spectacular plate with the Braised Alpaca with Chimichurri from the Alberta Livestock Producers Co-op.
Four Whistle Farms Lamb Koftas slathered in Eggplant with Creamy Dill Horseradish Sauce by Culina Highlands were my kind of lamb! These were TO DIE FOR. As well, they had them on platters and were serving you so you didn’t have to line up. Fun, and smart. Mo-Na Wild Mushroom Soup Shots by D’Lish Meal Assembly was a nice change of pace. The soup was intense, earthy, and luxurious; lip smacking, and I “shot” mine back, and smacked!
Hats off to Leva with their creative floral Fresh Petal Sorbet with Black Pansy Syrup from Inspired Market Gardens. Me thinks it was an ice cream, not a sorbet, but the room had become so warm that the frozen treat was a delight. It was fun, and I think it would be one of those treats you either like, or don’t. The pansy syrup was pretty, but the flavour was lost in the cream. I need to taste that on its own! I love the idea of it.
Now I didn’t catch the name of the product that The Westin Hotel chef was showcasing. There weren’t any cards, but he showed me a bag of a flax muffin mix made by Highwood Crossing Organic Farm. The presentation, as you can see, was stunning. The muffin was dry on its own, but with the glazed apples and coulis with the sinful cream, how could it not be delish? It was. And the muffin tasted really good, and probably seemed on the dry side only because it was so dense. And, because I was parched, maybe. Thank goodness for the plentiful jugs of iced water scattered about.
Did I tell you that I am a chocoholic? Well, I am. If it is there, I must taste it. I am not the kind that has to eat, and eat, and eat, and eat chocolate. It is far too rich for that. But there is nothing better than a small amount after just about anything. Perfection. I am also quite particular about “my” chocolate. If I am going for the calories, they had better be worth it. Well, I have not had many of Kerstin’s Chocolates, but every one I have had is superb. This was her very generous contribution to the event, and she was also showcasing Lola Canola’s Honey. Do you see the little tongue of chocolate sticking out of the side of the dish? That was a chocolate honey concoction that was so extraordinary I found myself back at the booth asking what it was. The black current jelly under the mousse was sensational. I love cassis and chocolate. I brought my friend Cathy to the even because I wanted to go with someone who would enjoy it as much as I, and because she does so much for me. She is in one of the candid’s below in the pretty orange top enjoying the Alley Kat Brewery Lager. The event was so elegant, yet warm and unpretentious; I was so impressed and had such a wonderful time. As a member of Slow Food Edmonton, a ticket to Indulgence was a must. Every one of the food plates that I have pictured above was accompanied by up to three wine (or beer) choices to sample, as well. I don’t know how people had time to do both, but I can’t drink wine anymore. So sad. It gives me a headache, and I used to love a great glass of wine with a nice meal. I was more of a cocktail drinker in my day, anyway! I did buy some wine, though. Everything that you sampled, you could buy for 10% off that night, and also got a 10% off card for your next visit to Liquor Select!I could not resist the Pinnacle Iced Apple Cider, and the Sparkling Iced Apple Cider. I bought my first iced apple cider when I was in Montreal a couple of summers ago, and the sparking version sent me with credit card in hand to the liquor table. YUM! Enjoy the candids that follow, and remember to buy a ticket for this event next June!
Better yet, join Slow Food Edmonton, and help plan these kind of amazing events! Big hugs to all of the many members who worked on this committee! 08/12/2008 Celebrating the Bounty of Alberta: Slow Food Brunch at Mary Bailey'sCelebrating the Bounty of Alberta: The Annual Slow Food Brunch at Mary Bailey's
Merry! Merry! The Annual Slow Food Brunch was held at Mary's home Sunday, and each member of the organization that attended brought a dish that celebrates our fresh local prairie food. This was my first "annual brunch", as a new member of the Convivium. The talk was about the food, and the sourcing, and the bounty of this season. Above, left, are Peter, Sara, and Mary toasting the season. Jerry Kitt and his daughter, enjoy the feast while Brad Smoliak gently cuts into Mary's Beet and Leek Tart Tatin.
Jerry Kitt, the owner of FIrst Nature Farms, and the member representing our Edmonton Convivium who attended the biannual Terra Madre Conference in Italy this year, shared his experience and the nine Principles for Security in Times of Climate Change which is part of the organization's World Wide Campaign for Signatures. It was an emotional sharing and one that I plan to work at to participate actively in this critical movement toward change. Jennifer CK writes about Jerry's farming history here. Please take the time to consider the nine principles for security and at least think or comment about this campaign. Both Mary and Jerry brought back some Presidia labeled items for us to taste and to learn about.
The fresh and crispy greens are from Greens, Eggs, and Ham. The greens were unbelievably fresh and I found it amazing that they are still harvesting these from their outdoor garden at this time of year! Andreas and Mary Ellen also brought two plates laden with their turkey and duck charcuteries. Kirstin Kotelko from Spring Creek Ranch brought her Basil Tomato Sausages. These are my personal favourite of Spring Creek's specialty sausages, and I have tried them all! I am a fan.
Barb brought the most tender Moroccan lamb from a neighbouring farmer friend as well as her homemade choke cherry syrup. Talk about memories of my Grandma and childhood! Hello! I need some more of that syrup, Barb. Yum! Brad brought the egg dish which I just wanted to look at; it was so pillowy and caramelly and crunchy and perfect. I didn't see any one sharing recipes, but even if I had this one, I know I could not get mine to look like this!
I tried to get photos of everything, but it wasn't easy because as soon as the food came out, so did the crowd, so I missed so much, like Darlene and Vince's scalloped potatoes and Thea and Chad's special dish playfully titled: "Brawn" with Saskatoon and Juniper gelatin accompanied by Treestone Bakery Bread. Thea explained that "Brawn is a combination of turkey, pork, venison, bison, duck, and rabbit - all roasted, then slow-cooked in a turkey-duck-rabbit stock. It was developed from Chad's memory of what his dad would cook back in Newfoundland." I am glad I asked. I had no idea what love was worked into that dish, but I did appreciate it!
Below, Tara's delectable tarts. I tucked this one away and enjoyed it in the evening, as I savoured the memories of this busy day... mmm!
I brought my favourite recipe of oven roasted root vegetables, and even forgot to photograph them here. I will enter the entire recipe on a blog to follow. I also brought two Angel Food Cakes that I made the day before. One was made with organic chicken eggs from Sunworks Farms, and the other was made with duck eggs from Greens, Eggs, and Ham. The chicken egg cake was much more moist. A lesson learned. But, there are so many variables, and not so manypeople I know using duck eggs to learn how to maximize them in this recipe. I will say that this was my third attempt at this cake, and that I really spent some time trying to learn how to succeed with them in this recipe. However, I also made zabaglione in my Thermomix with the duck eggs and didn't even bring chicken eggs to compare them with. In this dish, the duck eggs out-perform the chicken eggs in all areas. The zabaglione didn't break down. It sat for over an hour (well, the scrapings of the bottom of the pitcher did), and was still not breaking down. I always try to have duck eggs when making this dish. I find it is outstanding when made with them. (You can buy them at Sobey's on 4th Street or make arrangements directly from GE&H.)
)
Though I took many photos, I also missed many happy faces, but caught some, too!
I can think of no better way to have spent this beautiful fall morning. Mary's home was warm with friendship, full of very interesting people, and I learned a great deal. Yeah! 18/10/2008 A Visit to Janice Beaton's Farm in CalgaryA visit to FARM, Janice Beaton's newest venture in Calgary was a weekend highlight! The Cookbook Company Cooks in Calgary is a must-stop-and-shop for any person who loves to cook, particularly any prairie person. Gail Norton most definitely has her finger on the pulse of what's happening in our kitchens and any hard-to-find item will be there, or she'll tell you where to find it. Last Saturday, I was in the store browsing through her shelves laden with exotic tidbits, my creative imagination on overload, when I learned of a place to stop for a bite to eat that had just opened three days earlier called "FARM", a tasting room. It was lunch time, we were hungry, so we headed out to find it.
It was a glorious sunny fall day with the scent of apples and autumn colours in the air. We spotted the unassuming awning and were drawn to the tiny rustic vestibule. The room beyond: long and narrow, somehow just pulls you into it. Immediately, I was excited. The large communal farm family table seating, sparkling chandeliers, and tasting boards were just too unique to not quiver over. And the warmth of the staff was downright homey.
We perched at the bar so I couldn't miss a bit of the action. The back wall is covered with a chalkboard listing the daily charcuterie and cheese tasting fare. The menu offers seasonal dishes, and a tasting menu was waiting at our seat with a pencil to circle what tastes we wanted to select. Just sitting in the stool, feet dangling, made me happy. Nostalgia. In front of me at the bar was a series of old milk bottles filled with ice water. Across the bar, an aged enamal pan.
I felt like I belonged, and that somehow, I had been here before. I chose the beet pesto and the olive tepenade to start, and added the Duck Rillette, a Salami and the Sylvan Star Gouda. Vanja ordered the Mac 'n cheese. We probably both missed out on one important part of the tasting experience - the wine or beer suggested to accompany each taste. Neither is my thing, nor his. Quite a shame, really. Also, too early in the day for my weak-kneed system.
The beet pesto and tepenade arrived. Fresh, light, earthy and full bodied. Lots of cheese, toasted pine nuts. I remembered making a beet pesto very similar to this and wondered why I forgot about it. The tepenade had a surprising and pleasing citrus note, I would guess a tad of orange oil. Also, tasty. I did not think that this pairing was a great fit, but individually, each was bright and lively in the mouth.
The tasting plate was when the real fun started. Each cheese or meat comes with an accompaniment that the chef sees as a compliment to the choice that together create the "Taste" experience. The Duck Rillette was accompanied with Chef Adam's mother's pickle recipe: an addictive match. The Sylvan Star Gouda was accompanied with organic dried apple slices: a classic paring and a delightful surprise as the texture combination of the crispy dried apple and the creamy, dense cheese was brilliant. The Salami was paired with a Dijon. I had so much fun nibbling and biting, crunching and munching, savouring and sipping. Yum!
Vanja's Mac 'n cheese was very bold. One bite, and you sit up straight in your chair, without question. Lip-smackingly delicious, yet not the baked mac 'n cheese dish that I prefer. The cheesy sauce generously draped the pasta, but hadn't been baked into it. It was just too soupy for my palate. The root vegetable slaw had a very simple, yet perfect dressing: mayo and dijon. And then (drum roll) the dessert menu arrived:
TA-DA
Is it just me that gets really, really excited when I see an idea used like this? It was actually a thrill for me to get this little "recipe" card as it just pushed too many of my "just-right" buttons. (completely satisfied "sigh" - I didn't even need the dessert once I received the card to read!) I really wanted to try a desset, but was far too content and know I had a glassy-eyed smile pasted sideways across my face when I headed for the door.
Janice Beaton's Fine Cheese extends beyond FARM, and faces east on 16th Avenue, while Farm opens to the west on 17th. Everything on the tasting menu can be purchased in her store to take home and enjoy.
So, of course, I did...
and there is no bigger compliment that one can give to a place one has been than to try to repeat it. Here is my first attempt that evening before going to dinner, in our hotel room, with a bottle of homemade ajvar brought from home and some of the meats and cheeses from Beaton's.
My second attempt was our Thanksgiving dinner "tastes" before "the meal". Here, I was very pleased with a couple of my pairings:
The close ups: duck confit (made by me) with the crispy skin crumbled on top ( no pairing); St. Andres cheese with a black currant dijon: a burst of pucker-power with a lucious buttery finish, heavenly; Canmore's smoked buffalo with pistachios, Caprese with caper berries, and my Duck Rillette with sugared dill pickle sticks.
Meat and cheese with condiments and pickles: how can such old basic foods be so new?
Because...
We seem to have lost sight of the simplicity of the tastes of basic ingredients.
We seem to have lost the time to savour our food.
We appreciate being brought back to our roots, to a reawakening of our senses and to once again understand the importance of the value that great local produce offers to the quality of one's life.
Hats off to Janice. This year, I am thankful for the "FARM". 30/08/2008 Slowfood Fieldtrip: Greens, Eggs and Ham FarmThis was the highlight of my summer! Vanja and I escaped the summer city heat and drove through the prairie grasses, south of Edmonton, breathing in the country air, enjoying the landscape. As we turned into this 10 acre specialty farm, I started to vibrate. This was a "real" farm, and I hadn't set foot on one for too many years. The gravel path wound past the tiny tree shaded stucco home, the run-down sheds, and the beautiful big red barn to the more modern quansit structure at the end of the road. We parked and stepped out to Mr. Billygoat Gruff's haughty look of insult and invasion, and his counterpart's inquisitiveness.
Then wound back down the trail to meet Michael, the master chef of the day, roasting the most delectable Cornish game hens over the open fire. I AM IN! This is TOO exciting! Look at the caramelization on those birds... and then I see steam rising from a massive pot on a burner nearby.
VOILA! BABY CORN CHOWDER in fresh and lovingly rendered duck's broth! (Michael, I am your new best friend. You are too much, Really.)
Oh my GOD! Camera! Action! Nose! Smell that! Oh my GOD!
The smells, the feeling, the rustic reality of this moment was quite overwhelming. I felt grounded, yet off the ground. Memories of my childhood at family farms flooded through me. How have I become so out of touch with this farm life that frames the foundation of my youth and drives almost everything I do? I am home.
I am standing on a farm in the Canadian Prairies literally feeling my roots dive deep, deep, deep into the soil. ...and Michael is roasting chicken on the open fire, making soup in the open air "from scratch". I am truly in heaven!
The food was prepared by Michael and a couple of chefs from Jack's Grill. It was past spectacular. The produce was harvested, and prepared on the spot. it doesn't get any better than that. Mary Ellen and Andreas were the warmest of hosts. They show cased their farm goods in the best possible light. Under the prairie sun, on the grass, in their yard. Plastic table cloths. Massive enamel metal bowls. A gigantic shaggy dog sniffing your plate with giant amorous doe-eyes. This is casual Canadian at its very best. The Alberta Prairie experience. Sacred to those of us that don`t set foot on the land that sustains us often enough. Sharing food prepared by those with a fervour for the small farmer; with a commitment to sustain small farms; and within the spirit of the underlying whisper of this desperate necessity.
Please see the Greens, Eggs and Ham slide show under ``Prairie Summers`` to get a sense of the experience.
We visited, ate, and then toured the farm.
Visit Mary Ellen, Andreas, and their two daughters at the Downtown Farmer's market: City Market, every Saturday morning from 9 am to 3 pm. It is a trip well worth making. Their lettuce and spinach greens are phenomenal and the best in the city. They carry specialty carrots and beets as well as duck eggs and the best duck breast "prosciutto" that I have ever eaten. (But I have to have it fried. It is like candy!) They also have guinea fowl in the early summer, goose, Cornish game hen, and several other specialty items that are well worth making the trip downtown for.
09/08/2008 Slow Food EdmontonI finally made the time to find out how to join the convivium of Slow Food in Edmonton. It isn't hard. You just need your visa card and a sense of adventure!
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